Restoration Tips
#1 If you carefully scrub that front slick with Simple Green sprayed on a soft cloth, I bet most of that dark rub-wear comes off. Ancient record dealer secret, makes VG an EX. Next lesson “invisible tape repair.” – Otis
#2 A handy tip for warped lps:
ingredients:
1 warped lp
2 sheets of glass (must be larger than the lp diameter)
3. a sunny day
Many times basic repairs to your LP jackets can really spruce up the cover and increase the grade a notch. For example, A VG- cover can increase to a VG grade, a VG moves up to a VG+. Below are some basic repair tips I have gleaned over time that I will share with you. If anyone has other tips, please let me know and I will update the guide.
- If at all possible, always make your seam and spine repairs using glue. I have found Elmer’s Office Glue Stick to work great. It’s a gel adhesive that comes is a push up stick and dries clear and bonds very well. You will need to have a small flat head screwdriver to apply the glue. Scrape the screwdriver across the glue stick so the top of the scewdriver has a small amount of adhesive on the tip. Now carefully open the split seam enough so you can apply the glue from the tip of the screwdriver to the inside of the cover. Be sure to apply at the very top of the inside of the LP jacket. If you apply the glue to low, you won’t be able to slide your LP inner sleeve in when it dries.
- Once you have applied the glue along the seam (one side of the seam is fine), press the seam together and take a paper towel, lightly dampened with water, and slide it along the top of the seam or spine you just glued. What this does is remove any excess glue on the outside of the LP cover and smooths out the flaking from the seam being broken.
- Now clamp the seam or spine down with a series of black binder clips. Make sure the binder clips are positioned so they are clamped to the very top of the repaired seam or spine. Let the clamped cover sit for several hours.
- After several hours, you can remove the binder clips. Your seam or spine is now repaired.
Seam & Spine Splits – Repairing with Tape. I recommend making repairs with glue but if you decide to go the tape route then I recommend using acid free photo & document tape. Make sure the tape is clear and not opaque (the brand I use is Scotch). The acid free part is very important because acid free tape will not yellow over time.
- Simply measure out the piece you need and press the tape onto the front side of the LP cover. Now flip the jacket over and gently pull the tape so there is a tight fit over the spine or seam and then press down. Trim the excess tape at the corners or LP opening with a straight edge razor. The straight edge razor ensures a very clean cut up against the LP slick. Since the tape is clear document and photo quality, it will blend nicely into the LP front / back slick. I have applied this technique with some of my LP covers and the blending is excellent.
Seam Separation Repairs: This is different than a seam split. A seam separation is when the LP jacket’s seam becomes separated (versus a split) due to the original glue used by the record company becoming aged / brittle and no longer able to adhere the cover together . This is prevalent with covers manufactured starting in the 1980′s.
- You can use the Elmer’s Glue Stick, but I found a very quick and effective fix is to apply double sided tape over the original glue line. Scotch sells the double sided tape in hand held dispensers and works great. Apply the double sided tape with 2-3 runs to make sure you have enough adhesive and then simply press down.
Removing Stickers. Most sticker will come off by applying a product like Goo Gone to the label or sticker.
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Take a Q-Tip and dip it into the Goo Gone. Now apply the Goo Gone to the entire surface of the sticker and of course along the edges. Let the Goo Gone sit for a few minutes. After a few minutes, use your fingernail and gently pull back the sticker or label. Do NOT attempt to take the sticker or label off in one fell swoop. You will tear the LP slick. Once you get an edge of the sticker lifted, dip your Q-Tip back in the Goo Gone and dab underneath the lifted section of the sticker. Allow the Goo Gone to sit a couple of minutes so it can dissove the adhesive. Continue this process until the sticker or label is completely removed.
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I do not recommend using Isopropyl alcohol. Too much Isopropyl alcohol will leave a permanent pink discoloration. If you have ever seen a peeled Beatles Butcher with a pink hue to it, that’s why. The cover was peeled using too much Isopropyl alcohol.
- Contribution from another Ebay member – to remove stickers nothing beats Ronsonol ligher fluid. It will not leave any dark marks (which Goo Gone can be guilty of). It evaporates in minutes and will not eat at the colors or paper. Apply to the entire sticker (use a Q-Tip) and then set a poly outer sleeve and a book as a weight on top of the sticker, Wait 1-2 minutes and peel the sticker away. Technique and length of application varies based on different adhesives but 3 minutes would be the high end. As with Acetone, do not drip Ronsonol on your vinyl. It will damage the record surface.
Removing Ink & Markers: This is by far the most difficult repair to make. Permament markers and pen ink are extremely tough to remove. In most cases, if the writing is not overly intrusive, it is best to leave well enough alone. But here are some techniques that I have used with varying levels of success:
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If you are looking to remove marker or ink from a laminated cover like the old Beatle UK flipback jackets, I found success in removing both marker and ink by using a dry erase marker. Simply apply the dry erase marker over the writing you are looking to remove. Let dry for a several seconds and then wipe. The old marker and ink writing will also rub off. Do not apply this technique to a non-laminated cover. The dry erase marker will have the same effect as a permanent marker and you just made your situtation worse.
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Concentrated (non-diluted) Simple Green works well on removing ball point ink from covers (it does not do as good a job on permanent marker). You need to be careful not to rub too hard otherwise you will remove the print from the LP jacket.
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If the writing is in pencil, I have found an eraser like a Staedtler Mars Plastic (you can pick it up in Office Depot, etc.) works great.I have even found it works fairly well on ink if the ink was written lightly. Be careful on LP labels though. You run the risk of removing the color from the label if you erase.
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Another technique is to apply acetone. Acetone evaporates is seconds and is very good at removing ink and markers. However, there are two things you need to know: Never spill acetone on your vinyl records. It will damage the record instantly. Also, if the ink or marker has set for a long time, you will not be able to completely remove all the writing. The trick to working with acetone is to apply it in a targeted fashion (e.g., with a Q-Tip – do not apply it in a broad based fashion) and then immediately dab with clean soft cloth. Repeat this process until the un-wanted blemish has been removed to your satisfaction.
- Contribution from another eBay member – to remove pencil, dirt and grime try a Kneaded Eraser. They are clean, with minimal crumbling and non-abrasive. Rub with light pressure to remove pencil marks, dirt and grime. Be sure to “knead” the dirty portion of the eraser back in so you are always working with a clean section of the eraser. Eraser will need to replaced after a dozen covers or so but are inexpensive and can be purchased at any art or stationery store.
- Contribution from another eBay member – to remove ink try a product called “Krazy Kloth”. Will do an excellent job of removing most inks. It will leave a slight oily residue which comes up upon wiping with a paper towel, leaving no marks. As with any ink removing product, it is highly recommended you practice and test on junk covers before attempting a fix on one of your prized LP jackets. If you rub to hard or to long, you will remove the cover art ink.
Word of caution: I have found that attempting to remove marker or ink from a label usually ends up making the situation worse . Before getting bold and tackling one of your prized LPs, I would practice on some junk vinyl, this way you won’t destroy your collectible copies if your experiment ends up less than desirable. You can pick-up some cheap records at a thrift store or flea market to experiment with.
Cleaning Up Dirt & Grunge from LP Slicks:
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Use a product like a contractor’s soot and dirt removing sponge (Ace Hardware sells them) to wipe the cover’s surface area. This is a dry sponge that requires no water. You will be astonished at how much the sponge picks up after wiping the album cover surface several times. This sponge works especially well on textured, non-glossy slicks (e.g., George Harrison’s All Things Must Pass and Bangladesh).
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This next step is to spray some Windex on a paper towel. Do not saturate. Gently wipe the jacket surface area with the sprayed towel. More dirt will come off and after a few minutes, the cover will be completely dry and you should see a marked difference in appearance. Do not rub hard otherwise you run the risk of removing the print on the slick. Be especially careful with Sgt Pepper slicks. It doesn’t take much rubbing to remove the blue background on the front cover.
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For UK laminated covers (front and back), applying concentrated Simple Green onto a paper towel and then wiping both the laminated front slick and the non-laminated back cover works great. Another eBay Beatle collector told me about this technique and lo and behold, it worked very well. I was able to improve the appearance (and grading) of my old UK flipback covers. Let the covers dry for several hours after cleaning them. You may see some dampness in between cracks in the laminate but not to worry, after letting the cover dry, the damp spots will evaporate and disappear.
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Contribution from another eBay member – for removing dirt, soot, gunk and some ink and water marks try Magic Eraser. The best type are those that can be rinsed and reused. Very lightly dampen one end of the sponge and stroke / rub lightly and specifically where needed. Then use the dry end of the sponge to quickly pick-up any residual grime. Quickly wipe with a dry paper towel. This approach does not work well on porous paper covers but works great on most LP jackets. This technique takes a bit of practice so it is recommend you try it out on some junk covers until you get it down to your satisfaction. Results are excellent.
Repairing Tears or Rips:
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If there is a tear in the slick and the torn piece of the slick is still present, apply the Elmer’s Glue Stick and press down. It works great.
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If you have a tear at the opening or mouth of the LP cover, take a piece of tape and apply it to inside of the cover and then press down. I normally use clear packaging tape for this type of repair because packaging tape is far more durable than run of the mill Scotch tape.
Restoring a White Album Cover: Virtually all Beatle White Album covers have ring and shelf wear unless the record was purchased and immediately stored in a vault. They are also notorious for seam splits. Well, the seam splits can be repaired as described above, but what about restoring the front and back slick? Here’s how:
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First, remove the records from the jacket! Use the contractor’s sponge described above to remove any overt topical dirt. Then use the Windex on a a paper towel to remove any additional embedded dirt / grime. These first two steps are important – do not skip over them. Now with a clean automobile waxing applicator, dab a little Scratch Out (yes, the same Scratch Out used on cars – you can get it at any auto store) and rub the scratch out on the LP slick in a circular motion. Wait a few minutes and let the Scratch Out dry. With a clean cotton cloth, gently polish the cover free of the Scratch Out. Most of the ring wear and jacket wear disappear before your eyes. Not only will your White Album look much cleaner but it will also have a nice glossy sheen.
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If your White Album is numbered, do not apply the Scratch Out on the number – work around it. Rubbing the Scratch Out on the number may remove / fade the numeric print.
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This technique does not remove water damage or ink / marker.
Removing Mildew & Storage Odor: Mildew is tough to combat, but I have had decent success with this method;
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Remove the LP and inner sleeve from the jacket. Open the mouth of the LP cover (not too much – you don’t want to split seams) and spray a shot of a odor neutralizing product like Oust into the inside of the cover. Make sure you are using an aerosol spray and not a liquid spray. A liquid spray product will wet the inside of the jacket and you run the risk of damaging your cover. Let the LP cover sit overnight. Do not seal it up or close up the opening of the cover. The next day you should notice a lot less of the mildew or storage scent. If the cover needs another dosage, simply repeat the process.
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Contribution from another eBay member – put the cover (without the record) in the microwave for 20-30 seconds. The microwave will extract the moisture. Repeat as necessary for a clean smelling sleeve.
I would also recommend sanding the flaps of US Unipak sleeves. These sleeves are generally printed on ” coated stock “, usually lightly varnished to harden and seal the surface. Many of these covers were sealed with a heavy bead of very brittle glue. Sanding removes the glue and opens the pores of the paper, allowing the glue to penetrate the paper surface and forming a much stronger bond.
SEAMS !
Your seam repair method works very well
on smaller splits, but on large ones, and where sleeves have completely split, you can make a more permanent repair, using the method used to ” re-spine ”
books.The paper used for paste-over covers is fairly light-weight, and edge-gluing makes a visually acceptable repair, but does not in any way , strengthen the cover. For a more permanent fix, it’s best to repair the splits, INTERNALLY.
This requires some practice, and a good deal of dexterity, but …..
The easiest way to do this, is with self-adhesive sheets, like Avery Labels.
In order to ensure that you do not make the split larger, apply a strong binder clip at the end of the tear.Use strips that are larger than the area to be repaired, Leave the removable backing on, and fold the strip, lengthwise, into a ” V “, with the adhesive face on the outside. Peel the backing from one side of the “V” and position it over the split.
Burnish it to ensure it’s flat, and then remove the rest of the backer, and burnish the other side.
On sleeves which have completely split,
the Acid-Free Brown Kraft tape used for mounting prints is recommended ( NOT the packing tape with the strings in it ! ) . A good Art or Framing shop should have it in stock. It can be folded into the ” V” shape needed, before moistening.

Clean your records with glue! http://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/kcxon/glue_record_cleaning/



May 21st, 2007 at 3:17 am
a handy tip for warped lps:
ingredients:
1 warped lp
2 sheets of glass (must be larger than the lp diameter)
3. a sunny day
method:
place the lp on a sheet of glass
place the other sheet of glass on top of the lp
stand the lot in the sun for a bit
as the sun softens the lp, the weight of the glass will gently flatten out the record again and won’t damage the grooves
May 21st, 2007 at 12:11 pm
thanks! never tried this, but it sounds good
June 22nd, 2007 at 7:12 am
Matt: What a great site just stumbled on it and the jackets are brilliant. I use the exact method to repair spine and seam splits and to touch it off, you can get a pack of felt tip markers to bring back the original color by dabbing it along the seams. It covers any glue residue as well as eliminates any discoloration from the original seam split. Works perfect on primary colors. Been doing this for years and have never had any one complain about any repairs. Thanks Bob Perry
June 22nd, 2007 at 8:37 am
Hi Bob! Thanks for your note. I think Jack would have enjoyed this site! Wish I had done it years ago with him. I hope all’s well with you.
January 17th, 2008 at 4:11 pm
Terrific website and several good tips I’m anxious to try.
On the warped record instructions – how long is a “bit” in the sun, any specific amount of time?
Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Doug
January 21st, 2008 at 9:34 am
Tip for removal of stickers: use a lighter and heat up the sticker, in most cases stickers come of instantly. The older the sticker, the longer you usually need to heat it up.
January 27th, 2008 at 7:49 pm
Greetings,
Thanx for tons of great Lp covers and choice resto tips.I can only add one that I like to use with great sucess:To remove stickers from Lp covers or from labels,I use the lighter fluid technique,but I have a very thin paint scrapper that I use to remove the label.First you have to round the sharp corners on the scrapper,so as to not tear the cover,and I also round out the flat part of the blade as well.I pour a squirt of good ‘ol Ronson (just like Jimi @ Monterey!) on the sticker,let it soak a minute,then carefully slip the scrapper between the cover and the sticker.Once the sticker starts to lift,give another little squirt of fluid under it and carefully work the scrapper side to side and the sticker comes off cleanly and the cover stays nice.I use this technique because I found that by pulling the sticker with your finger nail or just pulling it off can sometimes damage or bubble the cover.By using the scrapper technique,you have more control to take your time to remove the sticker.It takes some practice and the right feel,so practice on those JFK and Herb Albert records and it will soon be a valuable technique to use.For water based stickers(like return address stickers),I use some hot tap water and apply with a Q-Tip on the sticker,let it soak,then slide off the sticker.Be careful on red,blue or purple labels as this may cause some discoloration.
April 6th, 2008 at 7:32 pm
Just a little addition here, to the great tips already spelled-out…
After I have cleaned the outer (front and back) and inner covers, if it happens to be a gatefold, and provided it is a glossy or even dull matte finish, on the cardboard, I have used Pledge Furniture Polish, (just a spot on the washcloth will work), and work it into the cover, for some added brilliance. Remember though, it will not work too well on paper (plain cardboard) covers.
July 20th, 2008 at 2:55 am
Heat can work for sticker removal. I use a blowdryer (remove lp from cover 1st!) to soften the adhessive and to keep it soft while I remove
the sticker. For removal your fingernail will work as well or better than
most other methods/tools I’ve tried. There is a brand of sticker removal
spray (Japanese) that comes with a small white plastic tool the size of a que-tip which has a wedge shaped end which can sometimes work amazingly well. As in all sticker removal, do it slowly and carefully. Heat guns, which produce a much hotter stream of air than blow dryers, are much too powerful for this application. Also citrus cleaners (orange whatever) can work wonders on some covers (on a soft cotton or other
soft applicator, then on the cover surface) but as you know it’s hard to tell sometimes which kinds of surfaces will react well with whcih sorts of cleaner/solvent. Rubber Cement is a very safe and non abrassive alternative to rubber erasers, just spread it on, let it dry a few seconds, and wipe it of with clean fingers.
October 25th, 2008 at 5:15 pm
Just used the hair dryer method for removing a sticker. IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!!! This internet thing can be useful. THANKS!!!!!
February 3rd, 2009 at 6:05 am
Hi there,
To remove marker, believe it or not I use an old cotten t shirt and spit. stretch some shirt over your index finger, lick the end then gently whip a bit. then finish off with some dry portion of the shirt till the marker is gone.
It has worked for me on many occasion. As with anything, just be careful
February 10th, 2009 at 6:08 pm
Hey!
I have a question, I have the white album, and many others that had some slight water damage. Is there anyway to get rid of it. Can for an example- wipe it off with a spray or liquid of some sort. Thank you soo much!
February 15th, 2009 at 5:49 am
How can I remove 3 small droplets of white decorator’s paint from the gloss laminate on a 1950s US Prestige jazz album cover, without damaging the laminate? The paint is not brittle enough to scrape away wit a scalpel blade, and Ronsonol, isopropyl alcohol, mild detergent and distilled water all failed to remove the paint. (I think the album was rescued from a building site – I’ve removed back tar from this one, but the paint defeats me. Thanks in advance to anybody who has any ideas on this!
March 1st, 2009 at 4:53 pm
WHAT GLUE CAN BE USED TO APPLY A SLICK ONTO THE BLANK CARDBOARD COVER? THANK YOU
March 30th, 2009 at 7:01 pm
I use vodka to moisten papertowel and wipe album covers as a very basic cleaning to get all the thriftstore goodness off. My hands always end up filthy from sifting through old albums and a little vodka wipe brings a nice clean surface. Because the vodka is less harsh than rubbing alcohol it’s very nice…
April 6th, 2009 at 5:15 pm
nice to see others in the record circles, to be using the great formula of Simple Green. It has been so kind to cleaning my record covers and discs up to beyond expectations. I have mentioned it to others, and on some other boards, and have had some curious response. Some don’t get it, but a handful have found Simple green helpful too. Keep up the great website.
April 16th, 2009 at 11:08 am
Hi LPCL,
Thank you for building this wonderful site packed with valuable information.
I have a question:
The methods above mentioned for removing stickers can by applied to stickers 32 year old?
I have one LP cover with a massive sticker (it covers 1/4 of total area) and I wish I could remove it.
It came out by itself in the corners (the glue is dry and toasty), but the center area still bound to the cover.
Any suggestion is welcome.
Thank you very much in advance,
José Tomás
April 25th, 2009 at 7:07 pm
The best thing for removing those nasty stickers or annoying labels for me is…
TA DAAA! A hair blower dryer! …whatever!
After you’ve finished blowin’ yourself… you can safely remove those horrible stickers or labels by showing how much you really love your favorite record cover by giving it a “blow job”.
First, before you start… you MUST remove the record disc!
Then… lay your cover down like you were ready to make love to it but instead making love to it, turn your blower on and aim it at the label you want to remove. While heating the label… this will soften the glue and make easier separation, with your fingernail, (OUCH!) gently scratch and peel away from the jacket surface. With a little practice you will have it mastered. It’s that easy.
Works for me… and hope it works for you.
July 19th, 2009 at 11:11 pm
I am so very happy to have found you. These tips are going to be so helpful. I can’t thank you enough.
August 18th, 2009 at 2:52 pm
Help! I just discovered that a recent flood in my apartment caused several of my record album covers to stick together in clumps when they dried (I was under the impression the flood hadn’t reached them — and now just found out I was wrong!). These are albums from the Sixties and Seventies. Is there any way to “unfuse” the covers without ripping the paper off of one (to save the other)? There was no mold, but some water damage “ripppling” of the paper on others. If anyone can offer suggestions on how to salvage these the best way I can, I’d be truly grateful. Thank you.
August 25th, 2009 at 2:03 pm
Hello:
Would you quote me on removing the paste over slick from the Beatles Yesterday and Today LP? I do not care about the paste over, just the butcher cover photo underneath.
Thanks
September 14th, 2009 at 5:16 am
A lot of sites say use a dry erase marker. Now that is fine, and I know what they are, but all the ones I have seen are colored. Is there a specific marker to look for? I went to Office Depot, and they have kits, but all are colored markers. I’d like to remove some sharpe black marks, but it makes no sense to use a black dry erase marker, or am I just confused? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Victor
September 14th, 2009 at 5:39 am
Use a dry erase marker to remove black marks. So what color should I try to get rid of Black? ( simply apply the dry erase marker). Could YOU Please specify what you are talking about. It seems to me you would would want a clear one. But I can’t find one. Thanks, Victor
September 19th, 2009 at 1:53 pm
Great site ! Very useful informative that works. Thanks to everyone.
Here’s my huge problem. In my absence, a cat used some my records as a scratching post. The spines are trashed. They are ripped and ragged. Heartbreaking. Some I will replace, some I just can’t. I have some ideas about repair. Such as gently sanding down the spines until they’re smooth, using fine abrasive paper. Whiping it clean and then taping it using acid free tape. The titles on the spines are lost anyway. It seems all I can do.
I AM OPEN TO ANY SUGGESTIONS !!! I would appreciate any input.
Killing the cat is a good suggestion if that’s what anyone is thinking. I know I’m thinking about it.
Take care, Jeff
October 27th, 2009 at 10:47 pm
Some stickers can be removed by rubbing them with olive oil and then wait a few days. It doesn’t work with all stickers, I think it depends what kind of glue is on the sticker
December 7th, 2009 at 8:06 pm
Hi ,, I am dry cleaner by trade and also collect vinyl .. want to get rid of mildew from you lp covers , simply buy some Tilex bathroom cleaner , spray it on any color album cover , wipe it off real quickly and not heavily , soft pressure and continual motion should clean it and get rid of mildew.. I do recommend you go over it qickly with a damp cloth afterwards and then dry it with a white towel .. awesome results !
December 8th, 2009 at 12:59 pm
I also use Q-Tips and cotton balls – light pressure – with a dab of tooth paste! Also, chalk (classroom type from the old days) removes a lot of marks but you’re right – heavy pressure can create more damage! Oxi-Clean diluted works wonderfully too. Seasons Greetings and Merry Christmas to one and all!
January 14th, 2010 at 8:31 am
I’m a bit of a newbie when it comes to record care, but I noticed that on a few of my albums there is kind of a foggy ring around the outer edge. Mostly it’s some pretty harmless crackle, but on a couple it’s pretty bad. My cleaning solution (d7) doesn’t seem to be helping. Sooo… what is it? and how do I get rid of it?
January 14th, 2010 at 8:34 am
Or d4. Whatever.
February 2nd, 2010 at 10:48 pm
Hey Man
I’v got a stereo and mono version of the classic Yesterday and today album with the paste down. Can the paste over be removed.
Michael
February 10th, 2010 at 8:14 am
The best way to have the paste over removed is to have Jim Hansen at Blue Jay Way Galleries do it.I think his email address is bjw66@hotmail.com.
It will cost you but it will look awesome.Never attempt to peel it yourself.You will screw it up.
Also,these days,unpeeled butchers are getting harder and harder to find because everyone wants to have them peeled.Eventually unpeeled ones will be worth more than peeled ones.
February 11th, 2010 at 5:32 pm
I’ve been removing the plastic wrapping from old vinyl bargains and using 2-gallon freezer zip-lock bags for protecting the entire album. Is this aok? I remove the thin plastic wrap because I thought the temperature changes could create moisture build-up? I’ll stay tuned for your advice LPCL Nation…
April 3rd, 2010 at 3:43 pm
Thought I’d pass along a tip for cleaning the ugly brown “foxing” that may be present on older LP covers. Using a Q-Tip and a saturated solution of Oxy-Clean, I was able to bleach out the foxing in the white edge area on my Butcher cover. The result is beautiful. Be careful not to saturate the cover to prevent delamination of the cardboard. A lightly moist Q-Tip should work fine. Several light applications may be needed. Test on a very small area first!
April 4th, 2010 at 12:35 pm
I have got a Beatles white album cover, on the front cover some one has used it as a leaning board while drawing. and a indentation of there drawing on paper is now showing on the cover . does any one know how to get rid of this, or even if it is possible… cheers .
April 5th, 2010 at 6:41 pm
Try using a piece of white chalk – sideways – and go lightly from side to side… I get good results this way. Managed to get my BeaTles White Album at an Amish Flea market for $5…. posters and photos included! That was a good day.
May 6th, 2010 at 2:14 pm
2 quick questions.
1. Just bought a rare, long OOP lp in in NM condition. The cover beautiful but has a small crease on the front near the bottom seam curving upwards(appears like the cover was “pinched”). Any suggestions on how to safely “flatten” this crease?
2. Any solutions for getting rid of ring wear?
July 11th, 2010 at 1:17 pm
Hi is there anywhere i can send a record cover for someone to restore?
I would be over the moon if someone could give me details, if such a person or bussiness exists, cheers all.
August 9th, 2010 at 5:38 pm
my question is the same as #20 Jody Retro, I have collected over the years lots of albums 200-400 of them on job sites where people left them behind. some of them I had as a kid and collected, my point is many of the covers are stuck together, is there a way to get them undone without destroying them??? someone HELP! Thanks Eric
August 13th, 2010 at 11:35 am
thank for share.. i will try it.
August 22nd, 2010 at 7:37 am
I have a qwuestion. A while back some records were damaged in my storage unit. They were in wooden fruit crates and the lower crate was exposed to about 7 to 8 inches of water. I’d like to know if there is any way of saving the jackets. A fair anount are stuck together due to the water and I am afraid to cause any further damage. I have lifted the crate to a higher position and the jacets have since dried out but now the paper has bonded with most due to the dampness. I thought about creating like a warm vapor of water that might help loosen the jackets (like a sauna) but this may worsen the situation. Is there anything that can be done. I’m not interested in restoring them for a profit just would like to save them if I can. Oh why didn’t i use a rubber made tub? Thanks.
September 20th, 2010 at 1:50 pm
Thank you! This is great information to have. I am often trying different ways of restoring covers so I can sell them on Ebay.
I also found that paint pens work to fill in scratches. Just dab a little and rub it in with your finger. Then wipe off the extra. Same principle with touching up scractches in car paint.
September 28th, 2010 at 3:55 pm
Hi
The cover of one of my rarest and most loved 7″s has some strange damage. The back is black, and if you hold it up to the light at an angle you can see rub wear, where the ink has been rubbed off somehow. Does anyone know how this can be restored? Possibly with ink? If so how would this be applied?
Cheers
October 29th, 2010 at 1:06 pm
Hi, great site! I am here trying to find out how to remove nicotine stains from covers. I don’t see any reference to this on here. Could someone please tell me what to do? The methods posted here are awesome but just don’t address the specific problem of a yellow hue to the whole thing from smoke filled rooms for years. Sometimes the previous owner was a smoker, although the album is mint so I buy it. It’s sooooo sad! Help! Thanks.
January 18th, 2011 at 8:18 pm
I have recently bought three AC/DC albums and each album has ring wear and chipped paint and i would like to know if their is any way these issues can be solved. Thank!
January 19th, 2011 at 2:19 pm
Bumped into your website and thought you or your forum readers could help me. My wife and I recently had a flood in our basement. A number of record album covers suffered water damage. The LPs, themselves, appear to be OK thankfully. I’ll try some of the suggestions here for cleaning some of the least damaged covers. But some are, unfortunately, beyond repair.
Do you sell, or know of someone (a website) who does sell, album covers? We hope to replace at least some of the covers, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for any help anyone here is able to provide
January 28th, 2011 at 4:35 pm
1) As mentioned elsewhere, Full strength Simple Green works wonders in removing dark ring or rub wear from a light colored cover. It also removes much of the soiling that can build up on the cover. It will also remove some light adhesives. Lighter fluid works better for removing stronger adhesives or stickers
2) You can refurbish the white wear areas that occur on the edges or corners of the cover with Crayons or Sharpies. Just make sure you match the colors closely. Sharpies are permanent, Crayons are more forgiving.
February 13th, 2011 at 10:55 am
I have an white CTI album cover with what looks like coffee stains on it. Does anyone have experience / success with removing coffee stains from an LP cover (…a tall order, I know…). Thanks.
February 13th, 2011 at 8:49 pm
Hi. I’m currently upgrading/reviving my old record collection by buying the same ones in better condition, mainly so I can have better covers for them because my records are actually in good shape, but my old covers are worn. For one of the records I recently bought, I can see that someone has laminated the front cover. I like this idea as it makes the cover look shiny and protected without having to store it in a loose mylar cover. It’s nice to pull a shiny copy out from my collection just like I did 40 years ago without it being in a plastic bag. If I laminated all my front covers I could have immediate access to holding and handling all my records. I guess the $$ value of the record would be maintained better in a mylar cover but I’m not collecting them for resale value, just for my own enjoyment. However I can’t find any information on how to laminate the front cover of a record sleeve. Does anyone know about how to laminate record covers and if there is any downside? Thanks.
March 14th, 2011 at 5:10 pm
great info and love all the tips to clean and restore records.
this may not be the forum to ask this taboo question but here I go.
does anyone know how I can cut old useless 78 polka records into intricate silhouettes?
cheers and thanks in advance if anyone knows of such a tool.
I am thinking is must be a laser or a low temp plasma cutter.
June 5th, 2011 at 3:58 pm
One thing I would like to contribute, is my method for preventing records from developing that Musty smell in storage. I place several scented clothes dryer sheets in the bottom of every box of records I have.
June 6th, 2011 at 9:28 pm
My questions is similar to #38′s.. and number #20′s, except for… the albums I recently acquired have not been exposed to water… but are slightly stuck on the cover in the middle area… may have been by a little heat… im not sure.. the records themselves aare in great shape…They are Elvis records so I would dlike to do what I can to avoid ripping the covers to seperate them.. any suggestions??
September 1st, 2011 at 12:11 am
Hi, I have a masters in historic preservation, and have collected for 30 years. There are some very interesting tips here, but there are experts in book restoration that would be horrified by half of the “Hints from Heloise” products mentioned. Olive oil – no. chalk – no. Crayon/Sharpies – no. Oxy-Clean – no. ziploc bags – no. Tilex bathroom cleaner – no. Squirting discwasher D7 all over vinyl – no. Sandpaper – no. Citrus cleaner – no. Goo gone – no. Windex – no. Simple green – no. Ruining LPs with Lamination – double no. A bit of heat for stickers is of course a tried and true method. There are many benign non-staining safe products available and used everyday by rare book librarians and conservationists available through Brodart, such as Absorene dry sponges for dirt on paper. Use products that book people use in as benign way as possible. If this doesn’t work, LEAVE IT ALONE. I assume that many of these methods are to somehow make the LP worth more for resale, or to make them more attractive. Introducing improper chemicals may over time create unpredictably worse problems, acid migration, obvious discoloration. You don’t know what will happen; the experts don’t know either. Time will tell. The problem lies in that the existing acids in the cardboard, paper and glue are reacting and migrating by themselves, and the goal is to stall that process, to maintain condition and value. You wouldn’t try to glue, crayon or restaple a valuable old Spiderman comic book yourself, right? If you plan to sell your LP as if it is a rare book, evidence of an amateur glue or tape job to a serious collector or institution will get you in trouble because it is seen as object fakery. I don’t recommend doing anything to record albums except using a good poly sleeve, and a controlled environment.
September 1st, 2011 at 12:36 am
If I found that someone rubbed a paint pen, or chalk on a rare $500 Jack Kerouac album that I bought off Ebay as an investment, I’d be so pissed, that I would make the seller not only refund but pay both ways shipping. Of course, Ebay won’t do crap about it..but object fakery / misrepresentation to a dearer or auction house on a “butcher block” might land you in small claims court.
September 1st, 2011 at 3:14 pm
Stan, what would you suggest, though, for slightly mildewed record album covers? Thanks.
October 15th, 2011 at 1:32 am
hi!
i have a butcher cover paste over mono with RIAA4 botton right corner on the back i can’t see the “V”sign of ringo ,but was told there is somrthing underneath how can you find out whether there is something under without doing to much damage or is there a way to find out.can you explain that to me?? thank you frank
November 30th, 2011 at 12:53 pm
Some time ago, I had several record albums leaning up against the wall near my turn table. I very unexpectedly had a water problem. Several of the jacket covers are now stuck together. I always knew that trying to separate them would ruin the covers so I left them alone. I was wondering if it would be reccommended to try the same method that you would use to separate pictures which is to soak in water for 30-60 minutes? I stayed away from this for fear the cardboard would warp. Any recommendations?
December 1st, 2011 at 8:40 am
Try using a hair dryer – blower – at different angles. I used a butter knife while the air was separating the records and wiggled the butter knife slowly and managed
to save a few records… A few nicks resulted but you can touch them up with
a Shapee pen of various colors…. I use toothpaste on cotton balls or q-Tips
also to remove the ball point ink entries, ie, names, etc.
December 28th, 2011 at 6:24 pm
Thanks for the tip on how to get the price stickers off of the Lp jackets..I used the lighter fluid “Ronsonol” and even the hard to take off PRINCETON RECORD EXCHANGE stickers came off with no problem..
Now I have a new obsession..only 3000 Lp’s to go..
December 31st, 2011 at 8:43 am
Frau Baron hit the etstae sale jackpot with – get this – 4,000 records from the 40s to the 80s for $50… This is indeed a Happy New Year too and
I am still in vinyl shock JC… It took her van and my PU truck to Git ‘R Done in less than two hours…
January 3rd, 2012 at 10:58 am
I see something truly interesting about your weblog so I saved to favorites .
January 14th, 2012 at 9:56 am
Howdy. My question is basically the same as #14 – not a restoration question, but I figure the people on here might have some advice. Does anyone know what glue is used to apply “tip-on” sheets to the cardboard in old-style record jackets? For that matter, does anyone know what type of paper is best to use to print the “tip-on” sheets?
We’re releasing a gatefold double-LP & are trying a DIY approach on gatefold blanks.
Thanks so much for any advice. We’d love to credit on the sleeve anyone who can help!
January 19th, 2012 at 8:36 am
I just bought a SS numbered white album. It appears to have a slick but my ’71 playing copy does not. Was the slick specific to certain pressings and if so, which ones. Just to clear this up, the slick is a kind of affixed overlay on the outside (or inside) cardboard cover, correct?
Thanks for any help, sincerely, at first I thought I had been duped and someone glued a ‘fake’ cover over god knows what and shrinkwrapped it.
January 28th, 2012 at 1:34 pm
I purchased a Doors LA Woman album as a gift. The plastic window is rippled. Is there any way to flatten that out?